Remodel Answers · Doors & Windows · Locks & Hardware
Are smart locks safe for a front door?
Short answer
Yes — modern smart locks from established brands (Schlage Encode, Yale Assure, August, Level) are as physically secure as a comparable mechanical deadbolt and add real features: keyless entry, auto-lock, and a log of who came and went. Avoid the cheapest Amazon models and any lock without a physical key backup.
What actually makes a lock secure
The Grade rating (ANSI Grade 1 or 2), the strike plate screws (3-inch minimum going into a stud), and the door itself. A smart lock on a hollow-core door with a strike screwed only to a jamb is not secure — mechanical or smart, same story.
Pick a battery-friendly model
In PNW weather, exterior locks with battery-only setups run through batteries fast. Look for models with a low-battery warning that fires at 30% (not 5%) and a physical key backup. Encode and Level both handle this well.
Install upgrades that matter more
3-inch screws in the hinges and strike plate, a security strike plate ($15), and a longer bolt if your door is thicker than 1.75". Those three details do more for security than the brand of lock on top.
What we see on Free Onsite Consultations
Roughly 66% of homes have at least one exterior door with compromised weatherstripping — a top driver of PNW winter heating loss.
Caught early on assessment: $95–$260 · Left until failure: $200–$900
Based on real experience across the greater PNW, doors & windows issues like this are among the ones homeowners most often miss until they become expensive. Our Free Onsite Consultation catches them early — while they're still a maintenance item, not a repair.
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Related questions
Electrical · Outlets & Switches
Are smart light switches worth installing in an older PNW home?
For most the greater PNW homes built after 1985, yes — smart switches deliver real value: scheduling, vacation lighting, voice control, and safer stair/hall lighting. In pre-1985 homes without a neutral wire in the switch box, the story changes: you'll need no-neutral-required models or a licensed electrician to add neutrals.
Doors & Windows · Locks & Hardware
How do I fix a door that won't latch properly?
A door that won't latch either has a strike plate that's out of alignment (most common) or the door itself has sagged. Close the door slowly and mark where the latch hits the strike — if it's above or below the hole, either move the strike plate or shim the top hinge to lift the latch side back into place.